Photography by Evan LeRoy

I have a special place in my heart for restaurants that do classic dishes perfectly. Anybody can chop up some romaine, squeeze out some Newman’s own and throw on some croutons and parm for a Caesar salad but it takes care and more work than most diners think to get just the right amount of garlic and anchovy in a Caesar dressing or the perfect size, crunch and color on a crouton. This is why I like Stove, on 28th Ave.

Tucked off the main drags, Stove is the kind of restaurant that creeps up on you. Even though the streets outside the restaurant were quiet the dining room was lively with servers hustling between tables delivering delicious looking classic dishes like hanger steak and fries, shepherd’s pie and fish and chips. I started with the crock of French onion soup, my date had the tomato and mozzarella stack with balsamic reduction. The caprese was nothing special but then again it never is. The mozzarella was appropriately creamy, the tomatoes nicely seasoned and the balsamic reduction tied everything up in a nice sweet/tart little package.

My soup on the other hand, was something I’ve only dreamt of. Rich, oniony and bursting with flavor, the broth alone would have made an excellent soup. They should serve it in a Big Gulp but that would be giving up the best part about French onion soup, melted cheese on the crock. Creamy, bubbly and just a little bit browned, the melted cheese and crouton on Stove’s soup crock was the icing on this steamy liquid cake. I ate the cheese in two bites and had to slow down through the crouton because I burned my tongue.

For my entrée I had the rosettes of sole with crabmeat stuffing, fish veloute and pernod essence with a side of mashed potatoes. While the mashers were a little under seasoned, the sole was cooked beautifully and the crabmeat stuffing was creamy and light at the same time. The girlfriend had
a salad that was on special with goat cheese, roasted pears and candied pecans that was a teriffic combination of sweetness, crunch and tang.

None of these are complicated dishes. Even the greenest of home cooks could replicate them to an
extent and they can certainly be found at restaurants all around the city and Astoria but probably not any better than they make at Stove.

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Comment by Casey on June 23, 2011 at 5:55pm
Love this place!
Comment by andy bullock on March 5, 2010 at 5:11pm
been to stove a couple of times, and is a huge favorite of my landlords, each time food was great, and service was nice and rapido!
Comment by Edward Cintron on March 2, 2010 at 6:33am
Stove has been around for a while. From time to time I go, but every so often I forget it's there.
Comment by Evan LeRoy on March 1, 2010 at 9:36pm
45-17 28th Ave. Microsoft Word is for suckers.
Comment by Ken on March 1, 2010 at 9:26pm
This place sounds good, what's the addie again?
Comment by Paul @ CFQ on March 1, 2010 at 4:09pm
Can't wait to try this one. Not too far from my place.



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